Seafood Divan

When Jerri first made this casserole I thought that it was called Seafood Divine because it tasted heavenly.   However, it is actually a takeoff of Chicken Divan, a casserole made with poached chicken, broccoli and Mornay Sauce–a classic French cheese sauce made with white sauce, Parmesan and Gruyère cheese.    Chicken Divan was invented and named by an anonymous chef at the Divan Parisien Restaurant in New York City sometime early in the twentieth century.

The meaning of divan is unclear.  One explanation is that “divan” is a French word for a meeting place.  Another is that the word actually refers to the privy council of the Ottoman Empire and by association with the council chamber itself.  My guess is that the Divan Parisien  Restaurant and its signature dish were given the name because it sounded elegant.

The strategy worked and the restaurant flourished for many years just a short distance north of Grand Central Terminal.   The recipe spawned dozens, if not hundreds, of variations and takeoffs, many of which seem to use “Divan” in the name just because it sounds good.

Thus, there are leftover turkey divans, ham divans, pork divans, fish divans, lobster and shrimp divans, hamburger divans, vegetarian divans and even spam divans.  I kid you not.  The one thing these recipes have in common besides the name is some kind of cheese.

Here is our recipe for “a really elegant dish” (a divan!) made with canned and frozen ingredients that you can keep on hand to use when you don’t know what to make for dinner and don’t feel like going to the store to get inspired.  This recipe probably originated somewhere in the midwest fifty or sixty years ago.  Neither of us really knows where we got it.  Jerri even accuses me of first making it, but she is wrong.

INGREDIENTS:

For the casserole:

1/2 pound fresh or frozen codfish fillets
1 six ounce can of crabmeat
1 can of condensed Cream of Celery Soup
1 fourteen ounce can of cut asparagus
1 four ounce can of sliced mushrooms
1 two ounce jar diced pimientos
4 tsp. all purpose flour
1/4 cup grated sharp cheddar cheese
White or brown rice

For poaching the fish:

2 quarts water
1 bay leaf
1 small onion
4 peppercorns
4 whole cloves
2 T lemon juice
1/2 tsp. salt

PROCEDURE:

If the fillets are frozen, thaw them before poaching and and grate the cheese.

Put the poaching ingredients into a three or four quart saucepan and bring the liquid to a boil.  Boil for five minutes, then remove the pan from the heat for a few minutes to allow the liquid to cool slightly.

Drop the fillets into the hot liquid and return the pan to low heat for five minutes or until the fish flakes but is not soft.  Do not boil or overcook the fish.  With a slotted spoon remove the fish from the poaching liquid to a mixing bowl.  Discard the liquid.  Add the crabmeat to the fish and mix them together, breaking the fillets into large flakes.

Preheat the oven to 325º.   Drain the asparagus and put it into a baking dish.  Drain the mushrooms and layer them on top.  Layer the pimientos on the mushrooms.  Sprinkle the vegetables with four teaspoons of all purpose flour.  Layer the fish and crab mixture on the vegetables.

Warm the soup with 2 or 3 tablespoons of water in a small saucepan and mix until smooth.  Pour the soup over the fish and vegetables.  Sprinkle with the grated cheese.

Cover and bake for 30 minutes.  Cook the rice according to your favorite method and make a salad while the casserole is baking.

Serve over rice accompanied by a garden salad and French bread.

NOTES:  You can substitute haddock, pollock or other firm-fleshed fish for the codfish fillets.  A glass of chilled white wine goes well with this dish.

 

Scrambled Eggs with Mushrooms and Shallots

Shallots are not cheap. However, one shallot can turn ordinary scrambled eggs into a gourmet dish, and if you wait until eggs are on sale, you can afford a shallot. Plus, if you are lucky, you can have the pleasure of identifying your purchase to the clerk who seems puzzled by the odd-looking onion. Ah, snobbery!

Shallots are related to onions, but they have a much milder flavor with a hint of garlic. Mature shallots have a brown papery skin covering their delicate purple and white flesh. I started using them several years ago after reading a gourmet magazine someone left at the cabin.

Here is a recipe to brighten your breakfast table.

INGREDIENTS:

3 medium mushrooms (about 2 inches in diameter)
1 medium shallot (about 1 inch in diameter)
3 large eggs
3 T unsalted butter
3 T milk
1/2 tsp. flour
1/4 tsp. salt
Dash of hot sauce (optional)
2 T sharp cheddar cheese
Black pepper to taste

PROCEDURE:

Clean and thinly slice the mushrooms. Cut the stem and root ends off the shallot, cut the bulb in half lengthwise and peel off the brown outer husk. Slice each half very thinly so you have little half rings.

Melt the butter in a medium-sized frying pan over low heat. Add the mushrooms and raise the heat to medium for two or three minutes, stirring and turning the slices until they just begin to turn golden brown. Reduce the heat to low and stir in the shallots. Allow them to soften while you prepare the eggs. Do not brown the shallots.

Beat the eggs in a small bowl until they are lemon yellow. Beat in the flour, salt and pepper, then stir in the milk and the dash of hot sauce if you like it.

Pour the egg mixture over the mushrooms and shallots and allow it to cook slowly for a minute or so while you grate some cheese. Stir the eggs with a wooden spoon to keep them from burning. When the eggs are nearly done, sprinkle the cheese over the top, cover for a half minute or so and allow the cheese to melt.

Serve with juice, toast or a toasted bagel for a gourmet breakfast.

NOTES: I know, I know, adding flour to scrambled eggs is a no-no. Do it anyway if you add milk to the eggs. The tiny bit of flour keeps the eggs from being watery. For the cheese, a sharp cheddar or Gloucester is my preferred choice, but I have used medium cheddar when nothing else was in the fridge. It works. I even tried Parmesan once. Shall we say there appeared to be a clash of cuisines?