Esther Bargen’s Bubbat

For at least forty years I have been putting off making bubbat, a Mennonite dish that combines meat and bread dough for an inexpensive dinner. Jerri’s family did not make it, so neither of us knew what to expect when I finally found the courage to try it. We bought a pound of Farmer’s Sausage at Louie’s Finer Meats on our way to the cabin, and I baked our first bubbat to accompany a turkey vegetable soup made with leftovers from our Thanksgiving dinner.

Our judgments were mixed. We agreed that bubbat was edible and rather attractive, but we also agreed that it would probably not become one of our favorite foods. When I researched bubbat on the Internet, I found some recipes that tell the baker to chop the sausage into small pieces and mix them into the dough. Others call for raisins instead of sausage. Both suggestions appeal to me. Since one version of raisin bubbat includes a cup of whipping cream to enrich the dough, I think that I’ll try that one first.

Raisin bubbat is a side dish served with meat, often roast chicken or turkey, while Esther Bargen’s bubbat is a main dish. This recipe comes from the Mennonite Community Cookbook by Mary Emma Showalter. According to the cookbook, bubbat is “A Favorite of the Russian Mennonites.” Mrs. Bargen was married to Bernhard Bargen, who was an associate professor of economics at Bethel College and the first manager of the Mennonite Press in North Newton, Kansas.

I am sure that Mrs. Bargen cooked many popular Mennonite dishes, one of which was undoubtedly her bubbat. She probably learned how to make it by watching her mother. Here is her recipe. I substituted active dry yeast for cake yeast and reduced the amount of salt.

INGREDIENTS:

2 1/4 tsp. yeast
1 large egg
1 1/2 cups whole milk
2 tsp. salt
3 T granulated sugar
1 lb. Farmer’s Sausage
3 1/2 – 4 cups all-purpose flour

PROCEDURE:

Warm the milk until it is steaming, then let it cool to lukewarm (105 – 110º F). Let the egg come to room temperature while the milk is cooling. Stir the sugar and yeast into the warm milk and allow it to proof for three or four minutes. When you see bubbles forming on the milk, beat the egg until it is lemon colored and, using a wooden spoon, stir it into the milk along with a cup of flour. Stir until you have a smooth batter.

Stir in more flour a half cup at a time until you have a batter that you can just stir with the spoon. You will have the right consistency when the batter begins to come away from the sides of the bowl. Cover the bowl with a damp towel and allow the batter to rise in a warm location until it has doubled in volume.

Cut the sausage into pieces about three inches long and grease a nine by thirteen-inch baking pan while the batter is rising.

When the batter has risen, spread it evenly in the pan with a spatula and press the pieces of sausage into the batter at two to three-inch intervals. Bubbat ready for the ovenCover the pan and let the dough rise until it has nearly covered the sausages.

Preheat the oven to 350º while the dough is rising in the pan. Put the pan on a center shelf and bake thirty-five to forty-five minutes or until the dough is nicely browned.

Take the pan from the oven, cut the bubbat into twelve pieces and serve immediately. Leftovers should be warmed before serving.

This recipe makes four to six servings.

NOTES: Mrs. Bargen’s recipe says to bake at 375 or 400º for about forty-five minutes, but 350º works better. Like most vintage recipes, this one almost certainly assumes you will use whole milk. If you don’t have whole milk in your refrigerator, melt a tablespoon of butter in the hot milk.

Farmers sausage is a mild smoked sausage seasoned mainly with salt and pepper. You can use any smoked sausage you enjoy for your bubbat.

Chorizo-stuffed Poblano Peppers

I remember a time when I thought that a farmers’ market was the local feed mill, railroad shipping point or dairy. My grandfathers were both farmers. Grandpa Hopp milked eight to ten cows, called them all by name and stored the day’s milk in cans immersed in cold well water until the milkman arrived with his truck to pick up the milk and deliver butter and cheese to grandma and grandpa.

Grandpa Rang was older and retired from farming, but grandpa milked a couple of cows and babied the team of horses he loved. Grandma and Grandpa (and we grandkids) drank the milk and Grandma churned the cream into butter. Occasionally she sold some eggs to the feed mill in Hayward where my mother also sold extra eggs. Before I was born, Grandpa Rang raised potatoes, of which he was very proud. He and Grandma still planted a big garden which produced enough potatoes to fill a few bags for storage in the enormous root cellar that could hold enough potatoes to fill a train car.

Growing up near a small city where most families had gardens, I never saw anything like the farmers’ markets one finds today in cities throughout the United States. I saw my first farmers’ market on a September morning in Bad Reichenhall, Germany, where I was a student on a fellowship in Germany. It was not called a Bauernmarkt (farmers market) but simply der Markt (the market). Like our farmers’ markets today, local vendors sold food, flowers and some handicrafts.

After I moved to Münster, which is a much larger city than Bad Reichenhall, I was quickly introduced to a market that was the primary source of fresh food and flowers for many residents in that city of over 180,000 people. You could buy fish, fowl, meats, breads, pastries, cheese and a wide variety of household necessities ranging from hot pads and tablecloths to vases, coffee cups and tableware made by local artisans. Here are two photos that we took at the market when we visited Münster in 2014.

At the Münster market
At the Münster market
Sausages at the Münster market
Sausages at the Münster market

My new student acquaintances taught me how to bargain with salespeople to stretch my limited budget as they did. One technique I still use was to arrive near the end of the market day when vendors were willing to cut prices on their inventories. One of my favorite memories from that year was of a rather stout farm woman in a gray dress who was negotiating with a thin old man in a dark suit. She was selling eggs. As I walked by, he exclaimed to her, “Sie sehen wie Taubeneier aus!” (They look like pigeon eggs!) The two were smiling, so I think it was a familiar routine for both buyer and seller.

I still look for bargains at our local farmers’ markets. Not long ago I found some small poblano peppers. They were about four and a half inches long, so I got four of them for a dollar. I planned to make chile rellanos with them, but they were really too small for that, so decided to stuff them with a mixture of chorizo and rice. The result was a delicious main course for Jerri and me. If you enjoy Mexican dishes, you should try this recipe soon.

INGREDIENTS:

4 small poblano peppers, four to five inches long
1 tsp. vegetable oil
1/2 lb. bulk chorizo sausage
1/2 cup cooked rice
3 T diced onion
5 T taco sauce, divided
1/4 cup shredded Cheddar cheese
3/4 tsp. ground cumin
2 T cold water

PROCEDURE:

Start by cooking some rice, if necessary. To make about a cup of cooked rice, put a half cup of uncooked rice into a one quart saucepan, add a half teaspoon of salt and a cup of water. Bring the pan to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer covered until most of the water is absorbed, about fifteen minutes. Turn off the heat and leave the rice in the covered pan for five minutes before serving.

Peel the peppers while the rice is cooking. It’s not difficult. Preheat the oven broiler to 450º and rinse the peppers. When the broiler is hot, place the peppers on a baking sheet and set them under the broiler for about four minutes. Turn the peppers and broil them for another four minutes. The skin of the peppers should have begun to blister. Put the peppers in a paper bag and let the peppers cool for a few minutes in the closed bag.

Reduce the oven temperature to 350º.

While the peppers are cooling, make the stuffing. Heat the vegetable oil in a small skillet and cook the meat slowly over low heat, breaking it into small pieces. Clean and dice about three tablespoons of onion and shred the cheese while the meat is cooking.

Peel the transparent outer skin from the peppers and cut them lengthwise halfway through. Remove the seeds and pulp from the peppers and butterfly them with the stems on.

When the meat is a uniform gray, remove the skillet from the heat and stir in the rice, onion, cheese, cumin and three tablespoons of taco sauce.

Lightly grease a glass baking dish and put the butterflied peppers into the pan. Stuff each pepper with a generous portion of the meat mixture. Top each one with a teaspoon or two of taco sauce and pour a couple tablespoons of water around the peppers. Cover the pan loosely with aluminum foil and bake the peppers for about fifteen minutes.

Remove the pan from the oven and allow the peppers to cool for a few minutes before serving.

Serve with the extra rice, bread and salad for a light dinner.