Chicken Primavera

Primavera means “spring” in Italian, that time of year when tender young vegetables are just waiting to be tossed in a delicate sauce and then piled high on our plates. There was a time not long ago when people waited impatiently for spring to arrive so they could enjoy fresh vegetables again. At the Rang place north of Hayward, we checked the asparagus bed daily once the snow was gone and announced excitedly the appearance of the first blossoms on the peas, beans and tomatoes.

Today we can buy fresh vegetables throughout the year. Though the very best-tasting vegetables are those we buy locally when they are in season, we can still make a wonderful Chicken Primavera when snow covers the ground.

Adding sautéed chicken strips to fresh vegetables in a light sauce flavored with Parmesan cheese and basil makes a tasty Italian-style meal. Despite the fact that you will have an extra pan to wash, don’t try to do all the vegetables in the same pan with the chicken and tomatoes. The vegetables should be lightly cooked, the way Jerri likes them. The Italian word for this stage of tenderness is “al dente,” which roughly means that the vegetables crunch a little when you bite them.

This recipe makes six servings.

INGREDIENTS:

1 1/2 lbs. skinless chicken breast
1/4 cup flour
1/2 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. pepper
1 cup sliced zucchini
4 Roma tomatoes
2 cups sliced mushrooms
1 1/2 cups broccoli
1 cup snow peas
1 cup fresh asparagus cut in one inch pieces
4 large cloves garlic
3 T olive oil
3 T butter
1 cup whipping cream, warmed
3/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
2 tsp. fresh basil
Chopped parsley for garnish
Salt and pepper
1 lb. fettuccine

PROCEDURE:

First prepare the meat and vegetables for cooking. Slice the chicken breast into strips about 1/2” by 2” and pat dry. Wash all vegetables. Cut the zucchini into quarter inch slices, salt and put in a colander. If slices are more than an inch and a half in diameter, cut them in half or quarters. After 15 or 20 minutes, rinse the slices and allow them to drain. This is a good time to grate the Parmesan and start the water for the fettuccine.

Dice the Roma tomatoes. Clean and slice the mushrooms into 1/4” slices. Cut the broccoli flowerets and asparagus into bite-sizes pieces. Cut the stems and flower ends off the snow peas, peel and mince the garlic and wash and chop the basil.

Put about a quarter cup of flour, a half teaspoon of salt and a quarter teaspoon of freshly ground black pepper into a paper bag. Shake to mix, then add the chicken strips and shake the bag to flour the strips very lightly. Heat about half the olive oil and butter in a frying pan and sauté the chicken until lightly browned. Turn down the heat, add the diced Roma tomatoes, and half of the minced garlic. Stir and simmer for 2 or 3 minutes until the tomatoes have softened and released their juice. Turn off the heat.

By this time the water should be boiling. Put the fettuccine in the pot and follow the instructions on the box to cook the pasta to the stage of tenderness you want.

In a second frying pan, add the remaining olive oil and butter. Sauté the mushrooms for three or four minutes over medium heat, then add the remaining minced garlic and the other vegetables. Stir fry until the vegetables are heated through another three or four minutes. Do not overcook them. Warm the cream while cooking the vegetables.

Drain the pasta and toss it with the warm cream. Add the basil, Parmesan cheese, chicken and vegetables. Toss, check seasoning, and add salt and pepper to taste. Garnish with parsley.

Serve with a green salad and fresh, crusty Italian bread for a memorable meal.

NOTES: You can substitute a teaspoon of dried crushed basil leaves for the fresh basil. I prefer Roma tomatoes for this recipe, but you can use other varieties. If the tomatoes are extremely juicy, you might want to remove the seeds and pulp.

Spaghetti alla Carbonara

Another wonderful traditional peasant dish from Italy! That’s what I thought when I first tasted spaghetti alla carbonara. After all, the name suggests that this is a dish for charcoal burners (“carbonari” in Italian), who undoubtedly appreciated a filling meal that didn’t cost a lot.

Alas, the recipe seems to have been created to use the bacon and eggs given to the starving civilians of Rome by the U.S. Army at the end of World War II. Even if spaghetti alla carbonara is not something that Michelangelo ate for lunch while painting the Sistine Chapel, it is possible that he sat down to a plateful of spaghetti con cacio e uova (spaghetti with cheese and eggs), which is a similar dish minus the bacon but with the grease.

And since my speculator* is working at full speed today, let me say that the good women of Rome may have created the recipe to serve to the charcoal burners bringing fuel from the countryside to a city lacking power that first winter after the war. Whatever the origin of the recipe, spaghetti alla carbonara is a deliciously simple dish.

Today, many people omit the “alla” (which means “to” in Italian) from the name, but whatever you call it, “spaghetti carbonara” or “spaghetti alla carbonara” is a wonderful change from the red sauces and heavy cream sauces most of us associate with pasta dishes. The sauce consists only of eggs, a little oil and Parmesan cheese. If you like bacon, eggs and cheese, chances are good that you will enjoy this recipe.

Here is how to put it on the table in half an hour.

INGREDIENTS:

1 T olive oil
1/2 pound extra thick sliced bacon
3 or 4 cloves garlic
1 lb. spaghetti
4 large eggs
1 1/4 tsp. salt
Pepper to taste
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Fresh parsley leaves for garnish

PROCEDURE:

Put four large eggs in a bowl of warm water. Bring four or five quarts of water to a boil in a large pot or or Dutch oven.

While the water is heating, cut the bacon into half inch pieces. Peel and mince the garlic. You should have about a tablespoon of minced garlic. Grate the Parmesan cheese and set it aside.

Put a tablespoon of olive oil into a large skillet and add the bacon. Fry the bacon over medium heat until slightly crisp. Remove the bacon and drain it on a paper towel in a bowl. Remove the skillet from the heat. You should have about three tablespoons of oil in the skillet. Dip out or add a little as necessary.

Beat the eggs until they are lemon yellow in a small bowl. Whisk about half the grated Parmesan cheese and a quarter teaspoon salt into the eggs.

When the water comes to a boil, add a teaspoon of salt and the spaghetti. Cook eight or nine minutes to the al dente stage. Before draining the spaghetti, reserve a cup of the pasta water.

About two minutes before the spaghetti is done, return the skillet to the burner, turn the heat to medium and sauté the garlic for half a minute. Return the bacon to the skillet and make a generous grind of fresh black pepper over the bacon. Turn the heat to low.

Now you have to work quickly. Drain the spaghetti and put it in the skillet with the bacon and garlic. Mix everything together for about a minute. Turn off the heat and dribble the eggs into the hot pasta while you stir briskly to keep the eggs from curdling. Sprinkle on the rest of the grated Parmesan cheese and stir until you have a smooth sauce covering each strand of spaghetti. If the sauce seems too thick and dry, stir in a few tablespoons of the hot pasta water until you have the consistency you want.

Taste and adjust the seasoning.

Mound on individual plates and garnish with a little chopped parsley. Serve with a green salad and a red wine such as Montepulciano d’Abruzzo or a good domestic Pinot Noir.

NOTES: It is important to have the eggs at or a little above warm room temperature so they will cook properly in the hot spaghetti.

Do not use the grated Parmesan cheese sold in plastic jars. You can buy grated Parmesan cheese in the dairy case at the supermarket or better yet, buy a wedge of good Parmesan cheese and grate it just before you use it. The better the cheese, the better the flavor. Top of the line is Parmigiano-Reggiano, which is imported from Italy and pricy, but a good quality domestic Parmesan cheese will work fine.

If you don’t have one already, consider picking up a cheese grater. It has a little hopper that you put a chunk of cheese in so it rests against a metal drum turned with a small crank. The grater handle is hinged. You press the cheese against the drum with the handle while you turn the crank and watch the grated cheese pile up on a plate. These gadgets sell for under ten dollars, and they are worth every penny.

*If you want to know what a speculator is, click here: The Speculator.