Chicken Marsala

When we moved to the country, the first outbuilding that Mom and Dad bought was a chicken coop. It was about ten feet square with a sloping roof. Dad and the farmer he bought it from somehow loaded it on a hay wagon and moved it to the corner of what later became our back yard. Dad had cut down three or four trees and brushed out a spot for the coop.

I’m not sure, but I think that he had laid a foundation of old railroad ties that they slid the coop onto. The roof and sidewalls were covered with roll roofing. There was a south-facing window to catch the winter sun and a sturdy door to keep out foxes, weasels, skunks and other threats to the chickens. Inside were a half dozen laying boxes and a roost made of poles.

The coop was big enough to house thirty hens and a rooster. Mom decided that we needed a chicken yard, so I helped my father set posts and staple the chicken wire to them. I was eight years old, so my contribution was mainly carrying a can of staples and the hammer. He used some old hinges to mount a gate on the wall of the coop, so it was easy to go into the yard in the morning to open the little door that we propped up with a stick to let the chickens into the yard.

All of us kids thought it was a pretty nice chicken yard. Dad had left a small oak tree in it, so the chickens had some shade, and the yard was big enough to get some exercise running around in it as the rooster chased the hens. As I recall, our first chickens were Plymouth rocks. The fence was six feet high and kept the chickens in so Mom could stop worrying and counting the chickens every evening before she shut the doors to the coop.

A year or two later, Mom got the idea of buying a hundred leghorn chicks and raising them for meat. That spring she ordered a hundred leghorn chicks from Sears, and the mailman delivered two cartons in a few days. It was too cold outside for the chicks at night, so from sunset to well after sunrise, they were housed in cardboard boxes covered with old blankets in the house. She rigged up some lights to keep the boxes nice and warm.

A hundred chicks can make quite a racket, but they do finally go to sleep. When the chicks got big enough, they were introduced to the chicken coop and its veteran residents. All went well until the leghorns learned to fly. A six foot fence was enough to keep the Plymouth rocks in the chicken yard, but after the first leghorn “flew the coop” the rest caught on real fast.

After a couple of chickens were killed crossing the road, Mom thought we should make the fence higher, but Dad refused. Instead, we opened the gate to let all the chickens out to roam the yard. My two sisters and I were hired (at no extra pay above our dime a week allowances) to chase the chickens into the back yard. As chicken wranglers we did pretty good, losing only a handful of birds before they went to that great dining table in the sky.

After we kids moved out, Mom and Dad didn’t need or want so many chickens. In northern Wisconsin a coop needs to be sized for the number of chickens overwintering, so Dad built a smaller coop for what became Mom’s pets. She loved her chickens and kept them only for their eggs. She got into exotic hens with pink, green, gray and light brown eggs to contrast with the white ones.

She and my father still ate lots of chicken, but they bought it from the market rather than butcher one of their hens. Most of us have similar sentiments, which a cartoonist captured a few years ago. A rooster is in bed looking miserable and his wife, a portly hen, is handing him a bowl of chicken soup and saying, “It’s good for you, and besides, it’s nobody we know.”

Here is a chicken recipe that makes a delicious main dish. I especially like it because it sounds exotic but is really just chicken breasts cooked on top of the stove in a sauce of marsala wine and broth. Marsala wine is produced near Marsala, Italy on the west coast of Sicily. You can find inexpensive but very drinkable marsala wines which are excellent for cooking everything from chicken to pork chops, vegetables and that heavenly Italian dessert, tiramisu.

Here is how to turn a couple of ordinary chicken breasts into a special dinner.

INGREDIENTS:

1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. fresh ground black pepper
2 T olive oil
2 T butter
1 lb. boneless, skinless chicken breasts
8 oz. mushrooms
1/8 tsp. powdered garlic
3/4 cup marsala wine
1 cup chicken broth
parsley for garnish

PROCEDURE:

If you want to make traditional chicken marsala, cut the breasts in half and pound each piece thin. It is hard to do this without making a mess. You can put each piece between two sheets of wax paper and pound it with your hand or the flat side of a meat tenderizer. Another way is to put each piece in a plastic bag and twist the end closed before you pound the meat. You can also skip this step and still end up with a pretty good chicken marsala.

Clean and cut the mushrooms into thick slices. Sauté the mushrooms in a tablespoon of butter in a skillet over medium heat until they turn golden. Remove them from the skillet and set them aside. Add the second tablespoon of butter and two tablespoons of olive oil to the skillet.

Mix the flour, salt and pepper together and dredge each piece of chicken in the flour mixture, making sure that each piece is well floured. Fry the chicken until the pieces are lightly browned on both sides.

Add the wine, broth and garlic to the chicken in the skillet. Bring to a boil and simmer for five minutes. Return the mushrooms to the pan and simmer for another five minutes. If you have not flattened the breast pieces, simmer for an extra five minutes to make sure the meat is cooked properly.

Taste and adjust the seasoning. Transfer the chicken and sauce to a serving dish and garnish with some chopped parsley.

Chicken marsala is bests served with a pasta of your choice, but it is also good with rice.

NOTE: You can use a little more butter to sauté the mushrooms if necessary, but don’t overdo it.

Mixed Bean Pot

There was a time when I hated beans. Green beans, especially, but also yellow wax beans. Beans that grew in thousand-foot-long rows tangled with weeds. Weeds that I had been hired to kill with my trusty hoe.

My father had probably been bragging to some friends about how well I hoed our garden, corn and potato patches, because one day, Mr. Vallem drove over to ask my mother if she and my father would give permission for me to help him get rid of the weeds in his new bean field. He would pay me twenty-five cents an hour plus dinner for the next two or three weeks.

My parents jumped at the chance to get me out of the house and into a paying job. The Vallems didn’t have any children at home to help out, and though I was only eleven, I was big for my age and had the callouses to show that I knew how to use a hoe. Before my first day in the field, I was excited about earning my own money.

By the end of the first day, I hated beans. Mr. Vallem would cultivate several rows of beans each morning, and it was my job to chop off any weeds left standing between the rows and to pull any that crowded between the plants in the rows. As any good gardener knows, the best time to weed is when it is nice and hot: The roots of the weeds dry out and the weeds die.

As any eleven year old boy can tell you, the worst time to hoe a thousand-foot row is when it is nice and hot. It is the best time to go swimming, however. I would think about our swimming hole in the Namekagon River as I pedaled my Schwinn the five miles to the Vallems every morning.

Mrs. Vallem made the job a bit easier. She would bring me a glass of lemonade or koolaid in the middle of the mornings and afternoons, which was a nice change from the water bucket and dipper under the trees at the west end of the field, and she was a fine cook. When Mr. Vallem said dinner, that’s what he meant. Not a sandwich or some green stuff that passes for lunch today, but a real farm dinner complete with a roast or ham or fried chicken and all the trimmings, including dessert.

My employment as chief hoe operator ended when we got the weeds under control. I ended up with twenty or thirty dollars, a fortune which went mostly to buy school clothes, though Dad did let me use a couple of dollars to get some more hooks and fly tying supplies from the Herter’s catalog.

My hatred for beans ended with the job. Today I enjoy them cooked just about any way you can think of. This mixed bean pot recipe uses different varieties of beans and two kinds of meat to create a flavorful and colorful bean and meat stew, a delicious main dish in one pot. Simple to make, easy to enjoy.

INGREDIENTS:

Water
1/2 cup garbanzo beans
1/2 cup red beans
1/2 cup pinto beans
1/2 cup great northern beans
3/4 lb. hot Italian sausage
2 T olive oil
3/4 lb. boneless skinless chicken breasts or thighs
1 medium large onion (3 to 3 1/2 inches)
1 cup water
1 cup dry white wine
2 cubes chicken bouillon
Spices 1/8 to 1/4 tsp. each of freshly ground black pepper, oregano, basil, fennel seed, dried parsley, garlic powder, rosemary.
Fresh parsley for garnish

PROCEDURE:

Measure the beans into a half cup measure and remove any stones or defective beans as you transfer them to a colander. Rinse the beans thoroughly. If you are starting the recipe the day before you plan to cook the beans, put the beans into a large bowl and cover them with at least two inches of cold water. The next day rinse the beans and transfer them to a Dutch oven.

Cover them again with fresh water and bring the beans to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer them for an hour to an hour and a half until the beans are tender but not mushy. Test for doneness after an hour by pressing a few beans with a spoon. Beans are done when they flatten with moderate pressure. Drain the beans in a colander and set them aside.

Rinse the Dutch oven, put it over moderate heat and coat the bottom with a little olive oil. Brown the Italian sausage while breaking it into pieces. While the sausage is cooking, chop the onion into eighths and add it to the sausage. Next, cut the chicken into one inch pieces. After the sausage and onion have cooked eight or ten minutes remove the sausage and onion to a small bowl with a slotted spoon.

You should have about two tablespoons of oil in the Dutch oven. If necessary, remove the excess or add some olive oil. Brown the chicken over moderately high heat just until it begins to turn golden brown.

Return the beans, sausage and onion to the Dutch oven. Add one cup of water and a cup of dry white wine (sauvignon blanc or chardonnay are good choices) along with two chicken bouillon cubes. Stir in the spices, bring the mixture to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer the stew for fifteen to twenty minutes, stirring occasionally. Taste and add a little salt or extra pepper if necessary. Ladle into bowls and garnish with fresh parsley.

NOTES: You can use instant bouillon instead of cubes and substitute navy beans for the great northern beans or add other kinds of dried beans. Black beans or red kidney beans add color and slightly different flavors. If you add extra half cupfuls of beans, you will need to increase the amounts of wine and water and may need to adjust the seasonings.

We like this dish with a cottage cheese and tomato salad and slices of homemade bread.