Christmas Cookies—Grandma Maria Kaufman’s Pfeffernüsse

Two weeks after our marriage, Jerri and I moved into the bottom floor of an antebellum house in Charlottesville, Virginia, which had once been the slaves’ quarters.   We loved the place. However, while most of the rooms were big, the kitchen was so tiny and narrow that one person could not squeeze past another while working at the sink or range.

It was too small to make Pfeffernüsse. The total counter space was less than three feet, and since we lacked a dining table for several months, there was no place to roll out and cut the dough. Two years later, when we moved to Murray, Kentucky, we rented a farmhouse with an enormous kitchen, where Jerri made our first batch of Pfeffernüsse.

Pfeffernüsse are traditionally made in Germany for the Christmas holidays. The English translation of the name is peppernuts.  Commercial Pfeffernüsse from Germany are about the size of walnuts and are dusted with powdered sugar, but we much prefer these plain little peppery nuts: What other cookie lets you eat a whole handful without feeling guilty?

Jerri’s Swiss-German Mennonite ancestors brought this recipe with them when they emigrated to Kansas from the Ukraine in the 1870’s.  The recipe came to us from Jerri’s grandmother, Maria Kaufman, via Jerri’s Aunt Hilda, who was a talented cook famous for never letting anyone leave her home hungry.  

Jerri made these cookies for many years, keeping the family tradition alive and supplying them to her brothers and their families until her death in August 2020.  She made a half batch of Aunt Hilda’s recipe, which is itself a half batch of Grandma Maria’s recipe. Even the recipes of our ancestors were giants!

Here is Jerri’s recipe followed by the instructions from Aunt Hilda, with additional instructions and notes by Jerri.  This recipe makes about a half-gallon of cookies.

Pfeffernüsse aren’t hard to make. They just take more time than a lot of other cookies, BUT THEY ARE WORTH IT.

INGREDIENTS:

1/2 cup butter

1 cup sugar

1 large egg

1 cup whipping cream

1/2 cup dark molasses

1/2 tsp. oil of anise

1 T baking powder

3/4 tsp. salt

Rounded quarter teaspoons of the following ground spices:

cinnamon

cloves

black pepper

nutmeg

allspice

ginger

mace

cardamom

About 5 cups all-purpose flour

PROCEDURE:

Aunt Hilda’s instructions:  Cream the butter and sugar in a large mixing bowl. Beat in the egg, then add the cream, molasses and oil of anise and beat well. Sift about four cups of the flour, baking powder, salt and spices into the liquid ingredients a cup at a time, stirring well between each addition.  You will need a strong wooden spoon.  

Then gradually add the remaining flour. You may need to knead the remaining flour into the dough. The dough should be “firm–kinda stiff–but still maybe kinda sticky–not bad.”  Mix all thoroughly, cover and set in a very cold place overnight.  You can freeze the dough or keep it for days in the refrigerator. Bake in a 350º oven. “Watch carefully.  They burn easy. Smells wonderful. Tastes good. Yum! Yum!”

Aunt Hilda said that her mother couldn’t make these cookies until the weather turned cold, because they didn’t have a refrigerator. If you want to make them in the traditional way, put the dough into an unheated room. Otherwise, use a refrigerator.

Jerri’s instructions: Take pieces of the cold dough about the size of two walnuts and roll them into quarter-inch diameter “snakes” on a well-floured board. Layer the snakes on a baking pan and separate the layers with waxed paper. Jerri coiled them into a pizza pan. Freeze the snakes for several hours or overnight.  

When you are ready to bake the cookies, preheat the oven to 350º and lightly grease two or three baking sheets. Chop three or four snakes at a time into three-eighth-inch-long pieces and put them on a cookie sheet. The pieces should be separated slightly. When you have a sheet full, bake it for nine to ten minutes. Let the cookies cool a minute or two before transferring them to waxed paper. Let the cookies cool thoroughly before storing them in airtight containers. These cookies develop their best flavor after being stored for at least two weeks.

JERRI’S NOTES: I use a big wooden spoon to stir this dough and usually get Chuck to help at the end of stirring so I don’t have to “knead” to get it stiff enough. Chop only three or four snakes at a time as they are easier to cut and place on the pan if the dough is frozen. Dusting your fingers with flour makes it easier to place the pieces on the baking sheets. If your oven heats unevenly (as did our previous one), you might need to turn the sheets after five minutes.

CHUCK’S NOTES:  I have never made these tasty little cookies myself, but I have stirred the dough, watched Jerri and placed lots of little pieces of “snakes” on the pans.  My first batch will be in 2020 now that Jerri is gone. 

The photo shows Grandma Rang’s Date-filled Cookies, Grandma Hopp’s Gingerbread Cookies and some Peppernuts.

Applesauce Cookies

’Twas the week before Christmas, and there was at least one young boy in Hayward, Wisconsin, who was worried sick. The ground was bare, which meant that Santa Claus and I had serious problems. As I recall, mine seemed more important than Santa’s: How could he leave me any presents if he couldn’t land anywhere in town?

I don’t remember how old I was, but I was old enough to know that Santa needed snow to land his sleigh at our house. I had been pulling my sled since I was three or four years old, and if there was one thing I had learned, a sled doesn’t slide very well over bare ground even with just one sister on it.

When I asked my mother what Santa Claus was going to do, she told me to ask my father, since he was a mechanic who knew about such things. When he got home from the garage, I was waiting in the driveway. My recollection is that our conversation went something like this.

“Dad, what is Santa Claus going to do? There’s no snow,” I explained.

“Well, Chuck, what did Ma say?” he responded.

“She told me to ask you,” I answered. “She said you would know the answer.”

He thought for a moment and then explained that Santa delivered presents to boys and girls all over the world, even where there was never any snow. “He has a set of wheels bolted under the sleigh. Do you remember the wheels on the airplane we saw last summer with wheels and pontoons?” he asked.

“The pilot said it was so they could land on lakes and airports,” I told him.

“Santa Claus’s sleigh is fixed up the same way, except with skis,” he explained.

“But why don’t the pictures of Santa show the wheels?”

“Well, they retract under the sleigh, so you can’t see them unless they’re down. Don’t worry, Santa will make it. Let’s go in and see if Ma has supper ready, okay?”

So I never got to ask my next question, which was, “Are there pictures of Santa’s sleigh with wheels landing in the desert?” I sometimes wonder how Dad would have answered that one, but Santa’s arrival a few days later pushed the question out of my mind. Dad was right, and there were presents for me under the tree that he also brought, probably in a trailer behind the sleigh.

I don’t remember anything else about that snowless Christmas, but I have some indelible memories of later ones. Not all were pleasant at the time. For instance, when my little sister Betty was four or five, she woke up early Christmas morning and opened every present under the tree. We didn’t know how they did it, but Mom and Dad figured out who was supposed to get the various things Santa had left. It took considerably longer to determine which aunt or uncle had given what to whom.

And there was the Christmas a few years later when we three older kids got up early and ate nuts that Santa had left. As the oldest I got the job of cracking the walnuts, pecans and almonds for my sisters. Santa had forgotten to put out a bowl for the shells, so we just tossed them on the floor. When my father came out of the bedroom on his way to the bathroom in his long underwear, he had to walk past the Christmas tree.

My sisters tell me they remember Dad being mad, and they are probably right. My memory, however, is of my father looking like a white grasshopper jumping up and down while grunting things like “Ooh, ow, what the, uh.” He reminded me of a young frontiersman I had read about who was forced to walk over hot coals, except that the hero was so brave that his captors adopted him for not crying out as he stepped through the fire.

At least in our family, Christmas was a child-centered holiday. My siblings and I share a lot of wonderful memories of those special days in late December. Two that I remember are the gift bags we got at church and school. Every child got a brown paper bag filled with an apple, an orange, some wonderful hard ribbon candy and some nuts.

The bag from church was first given to us the Sunday before Christmas after the service. The minister would explain the meaning of the gift and a lady would hand each of us our bag. When we went to Blair School we got the bags after our Christmas program which was held the evening of the day before Christmas vacation began. Every family showed up with all the kids, and it was a really fun time.

Families were greeted by the teacher who had guided us in decorating the school tree with strings of popcorn and cranberries, paper chains and snowflakes cut in almost as many patterns as real snowflakes. Mr. Ploof, the school janitor, had cut and placed a spruce tree in the front of the classroom and strung the lights. This was the first time we got to see our work after dark with the room lit only by the tree. Like my schoolmates, I showed my mother and father my contributions. We had practiced singing carols and every year one of the older students recited “A Visit from Saint Nicholas” to enthusiastic applause.

The program always ended with everyone joining in a few familiar holiday songs like “Over the River and Through the Woods,” “Deck the Halls with Boughs of Holly” and “Rudolph the Red-nosed Reindeer.” There was cocoa and coffee and cookies and fudge and everyone had a good time before we headed home.

We kids remember different things about Christmas at home. My sister Barb and I remember making popcorn strings for the tree, and she recalls making popcorn balls for Christmas that may have stuck to my hands but not in my memory.

Our younger sister Patsy remembers traditional gifts that she looked forward to—a big box of red delicious apples from Grandma Hopp and Uncle Bill and a card for each of us with money in it from Aunt Stub. Another tradition was a case of pop. We were treated to a case of pop only three or four times a year. Dad would drive us to Charlie Jerome’s feed mill and store next to the railroad tracks where we got to fill the twenty-four slots in the wooden crate with our favorite flavors.

Patsy also remembers a special Christmas when she was about seven years old. She had asked Santa for a holster set of pearl-handled pistols like ones in the westerns. Alas, no guns for the girl on Christmas morning! But Mom and Dad suggested that Santa might have left them at John and Rose’s, our neighbors down the road. Sure enough, Santa had not forgotten the little gunslinger. Patsy thinks there might have been some things for her younger brother and sister, but those guns blotted out every other memory.

And there were the special handmade gifts. Socks and mittens and hats knitted by Mom, big stuffed teddy bears made by Grandma and Grandpa Hopp one year, and a toy chest made for Patsy and the younger kids by Uncle Ruel. Patsy had found the chest in the Christmas catalog, but Mom and Dad couldn’t afford it, so Mom asked her older brother if he could make one that looked like it. He could and did, and it is still in use by great-grandkids.

Finally, we all have memories of special foods for Christmas. Barbara shared this one.

“Another memory is Mom making applesauce cookies.  I don’t know if she made them for Christmas, but she made them often, and I suspect she did them in December, too.  We kids loved this ‘cake cookie,’ and so I think that’s why she made them so frequently….she had lots of canned apple sauce on hand, so the cookies were easy to put together at little expense.  Patsy can’t remember seeing a recipe for Applesauce Cookies, but Mom may have had one or did the recipe from memory.”

I could not find her recipe, so I went to The Mennonite Community Cookbook, which has lots of traditional recipes. My sisters and I agree that this recipe is very close to the one Mom used for her applesauce cookies. Simple, easy and inexpensive, especially if you have homemade applesauce from your own tree. Canned from the store works just fine if you don’t.

INGREDIENTS:

1/2 cup shortening
1 cup sugar
1 large egg
1 cup unsweetened applesauce
2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 tsp. salt
1 tsp. baking soda
1/2 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. cinnamon
1/2 tsp. cloves
3/4 cup raisins
1/2 cup chopped nuts (optional)

PROCEDURE:

Preheat the oven to 375º and grease two baking sheets. Cream the shortening and sugar. Stir in the egg and applesauce. Sift the flour, salt, soda, baking powder and spices into the sugar and applesauce mixture by thirds, stirring until everything is well mixed. Fold in the raisins and the nuts, if you include them.

Drop by heaping spoonfuls two to three inches apart on the greased baking sheets and bake at 375º ten to twelve minutes. Done right, the cookies will be browned on the edges but still a little soft in the center. They will stay soft but not gummy after they have cooled.

This recipe makes about four dozen cookies.

NOTES: Both Barb and Patsy think that Mom added nuts when she had some available, but that most of the time, she just used raisins. Barb had a good suggestion: Use half of the dough to bake the first batch in the oven, then add nuts for the second batch if you wish.

If you don’t have unsweetened applesauce, scoop a tablespoon of sugar out of the cup before you cream it with the shortening.